Allegretti

On my way to Lunetta last night, I spied Allegretti, the brand-new brainchild of Le Cirque alumnus Alain Allegretti. The menu looked so enticing that I had to return today! Although it was only the restaurant's second night, everything went swimmingly. By 8 pm, there was barely an empty table in the house, and people kept stopping by to look inside.

The room was elegant, with hardwood floors, silver light fixtures, cream-colored walls and navy banquettes and chairs. Soothing instrumental music emanated from the speakers, but the restaurant soon became loud and lively with excited patrons. What were they excited about? Well, bigeye tuna tartare, Colorado lamb with spinach ricotta gnocchi, tagliolini with baby cuttlefish and almond pesto, duck breast with honey-lavender vinaigrette, and Perugina sausage with sweet peppers. See, I told you this was exciting!

After choosing a pesto roll (there were also plain and olive varieties), I munched on a complimentary goat cheese/sunchoke toast, and then decided to begin with the waiter's suggestion of heirloom tomato/burrata salad. Often, when eating a Caprese, I end up picking at the tasteless tomatoes while devouring the mozzarella in total. But Allegretti's indescribably delicious rendition showcased intensely juicy, variegated red and yellow tomatoes which equalled the rich burrata in flavor. Sharp-tasting scallions were scattered over the creamy cheese, which melted milkily into little pools of tomato or basil coulis, and the whole dish was seasoned with sea salt and extra-virgin olive oil. A salad to remember.

My main course consisted of four rafts of bright rouget fillets atop a bed of paper-thin zucchini coins, nutty pignoli and red peppers. Woodsy-tasting fried parsley adorned the fillets. The server brought by a thin sauce which tasted of the sea; it was shot through with saffron threads. He poured the sauce on the plate at the last minute, so the full-flavored fish maintained its crisp top layer while being moist on the bottom. (By the way, Allegretti will soon have a working brick oven, which will be used for another exciting fish dish.) I drank a glass of 2007 Convento Muri Gries Muller Thurgau white wine with dinner.

Dessert was a tough choice. Jasmine semifreddo? Licorice panna cotta? Lavender-honey creme brulee? I usually can't resist chocolate, so I chose the grappa chocolate fondant. The dome of dark chocolate mousse was covered by a thick layer of chocolate ganache and served with a scoop of ricotta ice cream, which was studded with almond slivers. Just when I thought I'd had enough, a plate of meringues and anise-scented butter cookies arrived at the table.

Hurry up; soon, you won't be able to get in!

Allegretti: 46 West 22nd St., (212) 206-0555.